Jointer - Wadkin Bursgreen 9-1/4"

A jointer provides two basic operations:

• Face jointing produces a single planar surface without respect to any other surface. It is generally the first step in squaring stock.
• Edge jointing produces an edge which is planar and perpendicular to an adjacent face. It is generally the second step in squaring stock. It is also important for making edge-to-edge glue joints, which is where the machine gets its name.

Once a workpiece has two planar, perpendicular reference faces, it is ready for other operations:

• A tablesaw can make the other edge parallel to the reference edge
• A planer can make the other face parallel to the reference face.
• Or, as in many handwork traditions, all measurements can be done with respect to the reference face and edge, and the other faces allowed to run wild and just be themselves.

⚠️ Safety

• Wear safety glasses and hearing protection
• Do not wear jewelry, long sleeves. Tie up long hair.
• Do not remove the ‘porkchop’ guard while the jointer is plugged in. There are few, if any, operations which cannot be performed with the guard in place.
• Use push blocks (paddles) whenever possible.
• Do not joint material less than 12” long.
• Do not face joint material less than ⅜” thick.
• Do not edge joint material less than ¼” thick or less than 1” wide.

Assembly Information

• Tables:
  • Both the infeed and outfeed tables are height adjustable. There is a cam lever on the front of the machine which locks the table in position. There is a knob under each table which adjusts the height of the table.
• Fence:
  • The fence is adjustable left and right to make use of different parts of the knives, and to allow rabbetting (this jointer is not equipped with a rabbetting table).
  • The fence is also adjustable for angle, with a stop at 90 and 45 degrees. There is a protractor to indicate the angle.
  • There is a small auxiliary fence which must be loosened when adjusting the height of the outfeed table. This is useful when face jointing thin stock, and can be safely moved out of contact with the table when not needed.
• Cutterhead:
  • This jointer is equipped with straight knives. These are a little harder to install than indexable cutters, usually involving a dial indicator, a straightedge, and some light cursing. Don’t remove or adjust them unless you are prepared to spend a few hours putting them back.

Dust Collection

• Attach a 4" vacuum hose to the gate at the back of the jointer.

Usage Information

• Check that dust collection is connected, gated properly, and turned on before using the jointer.
• Check stock for nails or other foreign materials, and remove them before jointing.
• Allow the cutterhead to come up to full speed before the stock is run through.
• Face Jointing:
  • The fence is not relevant to this operation. Set it as far back as required and don’t worry about the angle.
  • Set the infeed table to the desired depth of cut. Take no more than 1/32” off of knotty wood. 1/16” is recommended for most work in clear lumber. Deeper cuts, especially with wide boards, can bog down the machine, or can require excessive force to feed the stock.
  • Check the flatness of the stock faces against the jointer table - it’s best to start with the cupped side, as this will provide a more stable surface against the table. If the face is twisted, choose which three corners will be in contact and maintain that orientation. Do not flex the stock flat against the table, as this will maintain whatever curve is in the stock.
  • Use push blocks in both hands to push the stock down against the table and feed through the cutter.
  • Do not push with your thumb or fingers on the end of the board.
  • Thin stock can chatter when it first encounters the cutterhead, before it is supported by the outfeed table. Your left hand push block should be just ahead of the cutter at the edge of the infeed table to best support the work.
  • Heavily cupped boards may snag on the outfeed table. Back up and cut the end again. If flat boards are snagging on the outfeed table, lower the table very slightly.
• Edge Jointing:
  • Set the fence to the desired angle (usually 90 degrees) and verify with a known square.
  • Set the infeed table to the desired depth of cut. Take no more than 1/32” off of knotty wood. Because edge jointing presents less wood to the cutterhead, it is possible to make a deeper cut without bogging down the machine; however, 1/16” depth of cut is recommended for most work.
  • Since you are making an edge square to a face, orient the workpiece so that the reference face is against the fence, and preferably, with the cupped edge down.
  • Use a push block in your left hand to press the stock against the fence. It’s useful to do a dry run where you can find out if the bottom or the top tends to come off the fence, and adjust your technique as necessary.
  • Use your right hand to drive the stock through the jointer. Keep hands 6” above the table - when jointing smaller stock, it will be necessary to use a push block or push stick. Consider your strategy before turning on the machine.

Wiring Diagram